($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The nice thing about a wine carrying only a Bourgogne appellation from a grower is that you know roughly the origin of the grapes, since they must have come from the grower’s domaine.  That explains why this Bourgogne Rouge from Gallois, who is based in Gevrey-Chambertin, tastes like a miniature Gevrey-Chambertin.  Sure, it lacks the polish and complexity of Gallois’s wines from Gevrey-Chambertin — but it’s also half the price.  It’s a reasonable trade-off.
89 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2013