($15): The Albariño grape grown in Rias Baixas makes distinctive wine, which has become, justifiably, very hot recently because its edginess makes it a good choice with a wide variety of food. The 2012 from Martín Códax has a hint of that edginess, but also delivers some subtle tropical flavors that makes it a good introduction for those who are just starting to embrace this grape and wine. It actually has a softness that allows for enjoyment as a stand-alone aperitif type wine, but enough crispness to pop the cork (or more accurately unscrew the screw top) with freshly grilled fish. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 10, 2013