($23, Dreyfus Ashby): Though based in Beaune in the Côte d’Or, Maison Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, owns substantial vineyards in Chablis.  Their Réserve de Vaudon, made from grapes grown in their vineyards, is a perfect way to discover this unique style of Chardonnay.  Though quite concentrated because of the small yields in 2012, their Réserve de Vaudon maintains a fine flinty edginess.  Drouhin eschews oak aging for this Chablis, which allows the minerality of the region to shine.  Although it’s a classic accompaniment for oysters, Drouhin’s Réserve de Vaudon is a fine choice for Thanksgiving because of its piercing acidity. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 26, 2013