($150): Cloudburst is a new venture started by Will Berliner, an American who’s married to an Australian.  He entered the wine business serendipitously after he and his wife purchased a beautiful tract of land and house in the Margaret River area.   Intent on planting something to block a view of a nearby highway, he planned on avocado trees, but consulted an agronomist who, after considerable research, suggested that the land was ideal for grapes.  Judging from this Chardonnay, the agronomist was correct.  This, his second vintage, has all the finesse and power of a grand cru white Burgundy.  Creamy, and toasty, yet restrained and not overblown, he attributes its complexity to using more wild yeast.  A lovely delicacy and an extraordinary finish make it an exciting wine.
95 Michael Apstein Oct 22, 2013