($17, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): One of joys of Robert Oatley’s wines is that they clearly reflect regional character. This Chardonnay from the Margaret River region in Western Australia is restrained just as you’d expect from that appellation. It has an appealing whiff of oak that complements — not overwhelms — the inherent fruitiness. This is a lovely, graceful Chardonnay from one of Australia’s top producers.
88 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2013