($20, Robert Oatley Vineyards):  When tasting the line of wines under the Robert Oatley label, it’s easy to understand how he turned Rosemount, the company he founded, into one of Australia’s most successful wineries.  This Shiraz combines the best of that grape’s dual personalities.  Intriguing gaminess plays off a dark plumy flavor resulting in both sweetness–not from sugar, but from ripeness–and a savory character.  It has enough structure to remind you it’s real wine without being intrusive or needing additional bottle aging.  It’s remarkably long and refined for a Aussie Shiraz, which has a reputation for being massive and overdone.  It would be a good choice for the end of summer beef on the grill. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 3, 2013