($34, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Juicy and succulent, this weighty Bandol is surprisingly user-friendly now with just enough tannic-acid structure to frame the black fruit-like flavors without being aggressive or intrusive.  Hints of earth complement its dark fruitiness.  It carries its intensity and concentration with grace.  It’s a good choice for hearty grilled fare.
87 Michael Apstein Aug 27, 2013