($20, Maisons Marques & Domaines): It should come as no surprise that Pazo Barrantes is a reliable label for an Albariño because that estate was founded and is still owned by the Creixell family, which also owns the exalted Rioja estate, Marqués de Murrieta.  The Creixells purchased vineyards and established a winery in Rías Baixas in 1991.  The vibrant, almost prickly, grapefruit-tinged fruit flavors sing in part, no doubt, because the fermentation and aging is done in stainless steel vats instead of oak.  For all its edginess, it has lovely weight and depth.  It refreshes while cutting through grilled swordfish on a muggy summer’s night.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 2, 2013