($40, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Hugel is the giant among producers of Vendange Tardive (literally, late harvest) wine.  The best ones, such as this 2007 (sold in a 375 ml bottle), impress with their concentration, elegance and acidity rather than their sweetness. The sweetness is apparent, but is never the focus because of the brilliant balance of, in this case, a perfect storm of acidity, bitterness and sweetness.  Those sensations come together and wine explodes on the palate.  Yet it never overwhelms.  It bombards you with waves of dried fruit flavors, spice, and a ying and yang of sweetness and bitterness that seems never ending.  Try it with cheese, especially strong ones, or as dessert.
98 Michael Apstein Jun 25, 2013