($24, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Jean-Frédéric Hugel, this house’s brand manager for the United States, summed up this Riesling, “It may not be perfect, but it is how we want it.”  I would disagree slightly–it is perfect for the price.  Clean, dry and vibrant, this Riesling is made to order for sushi or highly flavored Asian cuisine because, along with its riveting acidity, it has plenty of depth and body.  Some may find it too dry and bracing to sip as an aperitif–although it is refreshing–but no one will complain when you open it at dinner. 90 Michael Apstein Jun 25, 2013