($18, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Jean-Frédéric Hugel, Etienne’s enthusiastic son, loves the 2010 vintage because it gave them great ripeness without losing acidity.  This Pinot Blanc, one of Hugel’s best ever, reflects that assessment.  It has unusual depth for Pinot Blanc, and invigorating acidity keeps in fresh and lively.  It’s an excellent summertime aperitif type wine, but has enough stuffing to hold up to simply grilled fish or sushi.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 25, 2013