($18, Louis Latour USA): Fleurie, one of the ten named villages or crus of Beaujolais, is allowed to put its name on the label, with or without reference to Beaujolais.  The Château des Labourons has opted to omit Beaujolais from the label because, as Bernard Retornaz, the President of Louis Latour Inc in charge of North American Market, said, “This is real wine, not some grapey swill that’s become associated with Beaujolais.”  He is so correct.  This Fleurie, fermented in old vats in the traditional way, has depth and an earthy appeal that balances its fruitiness.  The barely perceptible tannins in this mid-weight wine even allow you to chill it slightly for drinking with grilled skirt steak this summer.  This is not your father’s Beaujolais.
90 Michael Apstein Jun 25, 2013