($21, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Fonseca’s Bin 27 is a satisfying Port you can enjoy every day, as opposed to vintage Port, which is a special occasion drink for most of us.   As a ruby Port, Fonseca has aged it in large barrels for about five years, which softens it and makes it ready to drink upon release.  It does not improve with further aging in the bottle, which is just fine, since it’s a wonderful way to end the meal now.  Bin 27 maintains youthful vigor and is surprising complexity for a Ruby Port, with an ideal combination of sweetness and firmness from supple tannins.  What it lacks in complexity compared to a vintage Port, it makes up for in price and accessibility. Since it has already been exposed to air while aging in barrel for years, it will not deteriorate significantly after you open the bottle, which means that you can enjoy a glass, recork the bottle and enjoy another glass night after night.  Try it with cheese or by itself at the end of a meal.
88 Michael Apstein Mar 19, 2013