($13, Michael Skurnick Wines):  I hear the skeptics. A four-year-old Muscadet from what subregion?  Côtes de Grandlieu is a far smaller subregion within Muscadet than the more famous Sèvre et Maine.  It’s a slightly warmer area because its stony soil acts as a heat pump at night and its location between the Loire a large lake moderates the climate.   Hence, the wines tend to be riper and richer while still retaining the signature Muscadet vivacity.  More full bodied than most Muscadet, this one is still vigorous with mouth cleansing acidity.  Lots of savory notes appear, presumably from the extra bottle age, but its incredible acidity keeps it fresh and lively.  It’s a wonderfully complex Muscadet that shatters the idea that they can’t develop with age. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2012