($11, Palm Bay International): Muscadet remains one of the bargain sections of any wine list or wine shop. Located on the Atlantic coast on the western end of the Loire River, its wines have been paired traditionally with the local seafood. The sur lie designation means the wine stays on the spent yeast, which acts as an anti-oxidant and preserves freshness and verve. Pannier’s is particularly enticing because it combines a steely element with crisp citrus edginess. Open a bottle the next time you’re steaming clams or mussels. At 11 bucks, you will be very happy. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2012