($170, Jeanne-Marie des Champs Selection): The producer is always important in selecting Burgundy, but especially when buying wine labeled Clos de Vougeot.  The quality of the wines coming from this famed grand cru varies enormously because the vineyard is large and is divided among more than 60 owners.  Some, like Lamarche, make wonderfully expressive wines.  Others do not.  But all will be expensive.  Lamarche’s 2010, tightly wound at this stage, has all the hallmarks of a great Clos de Vougeot with a haunting combination of floral elements and deeply concentrated minerality.  Beautifully balanced, it needs a decade for it to unwind and its stature to show.  No doubt about it–Lamarche’s deserves the grand cru moniker. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2012