($24, Valckenberg):  J. J. Prüm, one of the very best producers in the Mosel, makes a consistently stunning array of vineyard designated wines, such as Wehlener Sonnenuhr or Graacher Himmelreich.  You can buy them year in and year out and never be disappointed.  This wine, labeled just Riesling without even a village name, is his entry-level wine.  And what an entrance!  It’s a fabulous introduction to the style of this iconic producer.   With this lacey wine, J. J. Prüm captures the tension between the floral delicacy, the minerality and the riveting acidity of Mosel Riesling.  Fruity enough to be enjoyed as an aperitif, it has the requisite vibrancy to accompany grilled swordfish bathed in a caper butter sauce. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 21, 2012