($22, Quintessential Wines):  Crémant d’Alsace, especially from a top producer like Lorentz, is a under-appreciated category.  Less “serious” than Champagne, this is a creamy, soothing bubbly that is perfect for summer sipping.  Dry and invigorating, without being astringent or aggressive, it works equally well with grilled fish or other main courses as it does as an aperitif. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2012