($24, Vineyard Brands): Mongeard-Mugneret, a small grower located in Vosne-Romanée, makes traditionally proportioned graceful Burgundies. They emphasize elegance and persistence rather than shear power. And those characteristics are evident in this Bourgogne Rouge. It’s a fine introduction to true Burgundy, showing the savory and earthy side of Pinot Noir. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 12, 2012