($18): Valdeorras, the valley of gold, named because the Romans discovered the metal there, is nestled in the northwestern part of Spain. The Mencia grape, usually associated with Bierzo, the adjacent DO, also does well in the region. The beauty of wine made from Mencia, like this one, is the earthy, savory (non-fruit) nuances it delivers along with the charming combination of red fruit flavors. Round tannins allow for current consumption, while bright acidity means you don’t tire of it during a meal. It’s another good choice as the grilling season gets underway.
90 Michael Apstein May 1, 2012