($21, Kobrand): Craggy Range focuses on making wines from individual, single vineyards in an attempt to capture the flavors of a unique site. I don’t have sufficient experience with vineyard sites for red wines in New Zealand to know whether they succeeded in that goal. But they certainly have succeeded in making a gorgeous wine. A Merlot-dominant (80%) Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Franc (8%), Cabernet Sauvignon (8%) and Malbec, the Te Kahu is silky and voluptuous without being overblown. There’s enough structure and non-fruit elements to keep it interesting and a pleasure to drink, not just taste, throughout a meal. Beautifully proportioned, it glossy texture allows you to enjoy it now. And it’s a great value, delivering far more complexity than the price suggests. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 7, 2012