($14, Loosen Bros. USA): Happily, with Riesling surge’s in popularity in this country, we are seeing very high quality varietal wines–as opposed to vineyard designated ones–coming out of Germany, the place where Riesling excels. Germany always sent us great vibrant Riesling from specific sites, such as Piesporter Goldtröpfchen. But varietal Riesling from Germany was never much to recommend. Now it is. And you can start with this one. It delivers far more complexity and interest than its simple label suggests. Dry, as the label indicates, it’s mineraly with an appealing persistence. Its firmness makes it better with food than as an aperitif. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2011