($20, Loosen Bros. USA): Greet your holiday party guests with a glass of this Riesling and they will be thrilled. The village of Erden, situated in the Middle Mosel, the most exalted portion of the river’s vineyards, produces beautifully structured and precise wines, such as this one from one of the Mosel’s leading producers, Dr. Loosen. This Kabinett conveys a bracing minerality and a laser-like focus, complemented by the barest hint of sweetness that acts as an amplifier for all the flavors. And, it does all this with only an 8%-stated alcohol. It’s another powerful argument than you don’t need super ripe grapes to make gorgeous wine. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2011