($15, Vine Connections):  Susana Balbo, owner of the Dominio del Plata winery (aka Crios), must be one of Argentina’s best winemakers.  With the 2011 vintage, she handed the pipette to her son, José Lovaglio, who, judging by this wine, is every bit as talented.  This Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white grape, is a wonderful sensory contradiction.  Its Muscat-like aromas make you think it will be sweet.  But the crisp dry citrus signature tells you it’s most definitely not.  It’s a beguiling contrast that works equally well as an aperitif-type wine or with pork dishes. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2011