($15, Old Bridge Cellars): Wines from Western Australia typically show more restraint compared to those from other parts of the country because the cooling influences of the Indian and Southern Oceans mean the grapes achieve slower, more balanced ripeness. This delectable Chardonnay supports that generalization with a lovely combination of toastiness and subtle creamy notes that sit atop a haunting flintiness. Citrus notes in the finish add to its liveliness. A terrific buy. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 13, 2011