($17, Hess Collection): An unconventional blend of Semillon (37%), Muscat (20%), Gewürztraminer (20%), Pinot Gris (19%) and Chardonnay suggests that this wine was an afterthought—a way to use leftovers—not planned. Whatever the motivation, it’s an engaging blend that works. Flowery aromatics reinforce its lightness (11.5% stated alcohol) while a lovely lanolin-like texture, undoubtedly from the Semillon, contributes body. A touch more acidity would make it perkier, but it’s still a good choice as an aperitif or summery dishes. 87 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2011