($25, Valckenberg):  It’s hard to miss with the wines from Von Kesselstatt, one of the leading producers in the Mosel.   What’s amazing is how undervalued these wines remain.  Goldtropfschen is one of, if not the most, acclaimed vineyards in Piesport, probably the Mosel’s most famous town.  The wine is the epitome of the Mosel with a lacey white peach-like fruitiness buttressed by racy acidity and haunting minerality.  Have a glass—or two—before dinner and then with summer fare. It sings. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2011