($18): This Merlot conveys herbal, leafy nuances that offset the succulent black fruit flavors and gives the wine a more delicate and intriguing aspect. Polished and long, it’s far less of an overpowering fruit bomb than its 14.5 percent alcohol would suggest. Its layers of complementing flavors and supple tannins explain why Merlot remains popular. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2011