($65, FWE Imports): One of the reasons Penfolds is a great producer is that it turns out a wide spectrum of distinctive wines even within a single varietal. The St. Henri Shiraz is, as they call it, a counterpoint to Grange. It’s a multi area blend of mostly Shiraz, (89%) with Cabernet Sauvignon, which adds backbone. What makes it unique, and unlike Grange (in addition to its release price) is the absence of new oak aging. Instead it’s aged in old (40 or 50 year) large (1,000+ liter) vats. Savory notes marry beautifully ripe and plumy fruit flavors. Firm tannins are evident at this stage in this balanced and polished wine, which makes it a good candidate for the cellar. (The 2005 St. Henri is still available in some retail markets and is far more advanced than expected for a wine that’s only a year older. If you see, grab it.) 92 Michael Apstein Aug 2, 2011