($13, Louis Dressner):  Muscadet is one of those regions whose good wines are terribly under-priced for the enjoyment they deliver.  The character-filled wines, like this one from the subregion of Sèvre-et-Maine, suffer from the reputation of many that are vapid and hollow.  This one, bracing and lively, has a subtle saline-tinged edge to its citrus finish.  With greater length than most, it screams for shellfish this summer. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 5, 2011