($45, Wilson Daniels): I’ve not tasted all the Chardonnays produced in New Zealand, so it would not be credible for me to claim that Kumeu River’s are the best. But having tasted them regularly over the years, they must be on a short list for that accolade. Kumeu River bottles a line of Chardonnay, each of which reflects the origin of the grapes. The Coddington is traditionally their ripest because that vineyard is their warmest. Still, it’s far from overdone and has wonderful balance of peach-like flavors, citrus notes and a hint of creaminess. Mouth-watering acidity keeps it all together. 91 Michael Apstein Jun 28, 2011