($60, FWE Imports):  Yattarna, Penfolds’ top of the line Chardonnay, has undergone a welcome transition from oaky and oily to this refined, creamy, toasty version.  Penfolds attributes it to the source of the fruit, the cool Adelaide Hills, which gives less ripe grapes with more freshness to the wine.  With a stated alcohol of 13.3%, Penfolds demonstrates clearly that wines needn’t have high alcohol to transmit flavor and intensity.  The influence of oak aging enhances and doesn’t dominate.  This is Australian Chardonnay at its best. 95 Michael Apstein May 17, 2011