($10, Vineyard Brands):  Portugal’s Douro River has long been famous for Port.  More and more, dry red table wines are emerging from this area over the last two decades.  This one, from Symington Family Estates, one the hallmark Port producers, is a blend of Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca, grapes used to make Port.  But in this case they are vinified dry to produce a deep red with sweet succulent fruit notes and an engaging rusticity.  For all that fruit, it round, yet not soft, with a surprisingly layered finish.  A terrific choice for the hamburger-grilling season ahead. 88 Michael Apstein May 3, 2011