($14, Vineyard Brands):  Muscadet remains one of the bargain wines in the world.  True, many can be thin and vapid.  But when they have depth and concentration, like this one, their lemony acidity just amplifies their pleasure.  An appealing chalky earthy character accompanies its citrus qualities.  But its main virtue is a lovely depth that makes it a marvelous choice for briny shellfish or simply grilled fish. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 26, 2011