($55, Frederick Wildman):  Hugel, along with Trimbach and Beyer, other stellar Alsace producers, vigorously oppose the Grand Cru categorization of Alsace vineyards despite their ownership in many vineyards that received Grand Cru status.  They believe the classification system is flawed because it includes inferior sites that dilute quality.  Hence, although this wine comes exclusively from the heart of the Grand Cru Schoenenberg vineyard, Hugel labels it Jubilee instead using the vineyard name. It’s Grand Cru nonetheless.  Tightly wound at this young stage, it needs several more years for its glory to show.  (Look for the Hugel’s 2004 Jubilee Riesling for current drinking).  As enjoyable as Hugel’s regular Riesling is, this one is just classier with more layers.  It has good weight and concentration without being heavy or awkward.  Flavors of earth, minerals and apple-like fruit unfold slowly from the glass.  The firm acidity gives it backbone and precision, which makes the flavors reverberate. 94 Michael Apstein Feb 15, 2011