($13, W. J. Deutsch and Sons):  Brouilly, the largest of the Beaujolais crus, is known for good, but not terribly concentrated, wines.  This one clearly did read its script and shows why the locals are hailing the 2009 vintage in Beaujolais as one of the best ever.  It conveys a lovely floral note with an almost paradoxical delicacy considering how concentrated it is.  Ripe and long, with the usual barely noticeable tannins of Beaujolais, it is uncommonly attractive for Brouilly. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 25, 2011