($12, Pasternak Wine Imports): Guy Saget, an excellent Sancerre producer who purchased the Archambault estate, has opted to use the newly created appellation, Vin de France, for this wine made from grapes grown outside of the usual Loire appellations known for Sauvignon Blanc. The Vin de France umbrella gives producers considerable latitude in labeling and allows them to use grape names, something that’s prohibited for more prestigious appellations. Its subtle grapefruit rind-like notes and bright acidity clearly announce the variety. It has good weight for a “simple” everyday wine. Not surprisingly, it lacks the unique chalkiness of Sancerre, but then again, it isn’t trying to be–and is not priced that way. 87 Oct 19, 2010