($8, Banfi Vintners):  This wine, produced by Concha y Toro, continues their tradition of delivering more than you’d expect from the price.  Showing more than just fruit–even though there’s plent of that–this Merlot also conveys hints of tar or earth, which balances the ripeness.  The tannins are soft and plush, which means you could drink it as a stand-alone aperitif, but there’s enough going on to make it a good choice at the table with a steak or roast.  Priced at eight bucks, it’s a steal. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 5, 2010