($15, Folio Wine Company):  Alvaro Palacios, one of Spain’s leading winemakers, returned to his family’s property a decade ago after his father died and renovated the estate by replanting, lowering yields and redirecting the estate’s focus.  He jettisoned the traditional Rioja terminology of Joven, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva.  Using that labeling, this La Vendimia would have been considered a Joven since it was aged only briefly in oak barrels. A blend of half Tempranillo and Garnacha, this fruit-forward wine is quite ripe–some might complain it’s a little hot–but has uplifting acidity and engaging spice.  Its concentration suggests a more modern interpretation, but it’s not overdone.  For the price, it is enormously satisfying. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010