($18, Pasternak Wine Imports):  Crémant d’Alsace, which is made by the traditional (Champagne) method from any of the Alsace grapes except Gewurztraminer and Chasselas, is an under-appreciated category of sparkling wine.  As a category they are lighter and less complex than Champagne, but when talented producers, such as Albrecht, make them, they deliver considerable pleasure.  In this brightly pink colored Pinot Noir based bubbly captivating hints of strawberry-like fruit burst forth.  A creamy mousse adds an unexpected roundness–it’s still nicely crisp–and explains why it’s a perfect aperitif.  But it has plenty of stuffing to stand up to food so don’t be shy about bringing it to the table. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010