($23, Jorge Ordonez):  Rioja, like many wine areas around the world, is home to producers who are breaking from tradition.  Miguel Angel De Gregorio, the winemaker at Finca Allende, eschews the traditional Rioja nomenclature of Crianza or Reserva, but still embraces the indigenous grapes, mainly Tempranillo, to make this bold wine.  His use of French instead of American, oak is another break with the past.  The result of this past/future dichotomy is a Rioja with a seamless combination of red fruit flavors, meaty nuances and black cherry acidity.  Fine tannins and a glossy texture allow an invigorating savory quality to complement the fruit.  It’s hard to label this Rioja as either “traditional” or “modern.” It’s easy to label it very good. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 10, 2010