($53, Jorge Ordonez):  Consumers wishing to drink wines with mature character without spending a fortune at auction or stocking their own wine cellar can head to their local retailer and pull this one off the shelf.  Gran Reserva designation in Rioja means the wine was aged a minimum of 5 years prior to release.  Prado Enea is the name Bodegas Muga, a leading Rioja producer, gives to their top wine.  They produce it only in top years, such as 2000, 2001 and 2004. This Tempranillo-based (80%) wine is a traditional Gran Reserva style with a leafy mature nose, attractive spice and fine tannins.  Firm, but not hard, it combines elegance with power.  Consumers looking for bright ripe fruit character will be disappointed.  But if you want to savor the magical transformation of fresh fruit flavors to earthy, non-fruit nuances, this wine is a fine place to start. 94 Michael Apstein Jul 6, 2010