($13, Skurnik):  As a seafood lover, I personally am pleased to see that the prices of Muscadet have risen far slower than their quality.  Sure, there are plenty of insipid, hollow Muscadets on the market, but when you find a stellar one like this one from Domaine de Herbauges, you can’t help but wonder why they’re not more expensive.  Linear and focused, with a pleasant bite, this Muscadet–from the less well-known sub region of Côtes de Grandlieu–has surprising body and length.  Steamed mussels, watch out. 88 Michael Apstein May 25, 2010