($70, Ex Cellars Wine Agency):  Philipponnat is probably the most under-appreciated Champagne firm.  They make a great array of wines, but, curiously, have little name recognition in this country.  Although they are best known for the Pinot Noir-dominant wines (especially their stunning Clos des Goisses) this Grand Blanc, made exclusively from Chardonnay, shows they are equally talented with that varietal.  About 15% of the blend comes from the famed Clos des Goisses vineyard, which helps explain why this Champagne has such power–especially for a Blanc de Blancs.  Young and tightly-wound, the glorious elegance of Chardonnay appears with air.  The vibrancy, especially in the finish, is exhilarating. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2010