($80, Hess Imports):  When I first tasted this wine–their current release–I immediately was reminded of what Louis Latour (the father of the current head of that renowned Burgundy firm) once told me, “Great wines always taste good.”  Those who love young vigorous Shiraz are in for a treat because this one has all you’d expect, plus elegance and refinement–two words not usually used to describe Barossa Shiraz.  But its layered complexity, savory notes, refined tannins and beautiful balance means it will develop and evolve over the next two decades like the best of Lehmann’s Stonewell Shiraz, his flagship wine.  So for those who want wine for the cellar, pick up this one.  But you better get plenty because you’ll probably want to taste it now.  After you do, it will be hard to keep it all in the cellar–because great wine always tastes good. 96 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2010