($11, Vineyard Brands):  The Fournier family owns three domaines in and around Sancerre, in the heart of the Loire Valley, and is one of that region’s leading producers.  In addition to their excellent appellation controllée Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, they produce this bright and lively Sauvignon Blanc, the same grape used in those two appellations.  (Vin de Pays regulations allow varietal labeling whereas appellation controllée regulations generally forbid it.)  While it lacks the complexity and depth of Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé–and the price–it delivers zesty, citric-tinged flavors that would match well with shellfish or simply prepared seafood dishes. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2009