($20, Kobrand):  The script label makes deciphering the producer’s name difficult, but that should not deter consumers from reaching for the bottle.  A softer–some would say “friendlier”–style of Albariño, it still has sufficient brightness and verve to hold your interest throughout a meal.  A creamy patina adds a mellow touch to the underlying spark. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2009