($26, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Less well-known towns just outside of Beaune in the heart of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, such as Savigny- or Chorey-lès-Beaune (lès means near), offer consumers an excellent opportunity to savor the charms of Burgundy without taking out a second mortgage.  A step-up from Drouhin’s very good and well-priced Bourgogne Rouge (reviewed previously), their Chorey-lès-Beaune has a surprising complexity for a “lesser” village wine, with alluring delicate earthy notes to complement the bright juicy red fruit-like flavors.  Mild, supple tannins lend support without blunting its charm.  Ready to drink now, another year or two in the cellar will likely bring out even more layers of enjoyment, so there’s no rush. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 8, 2009