($13, Elite Wines): With summer upon us—at least by the calendar—here’s a perfect crisp refreshing white for simple seafood.  Verdejo is an indigenous Spanish grape rarely found outside of that country.  In this rendition, delicate herbal notes complement the citric tang and lend more complexity than you’d imagine given the price.  Sip as an aperitif, but with plenty of body; don’t be afraid to carry it to the table to drink with steamed mussels. 87 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2009