($20, Domaine Select): What’s in the bottle is worth the time to unravel what’s on the bottle, so here goes:  Wachau is easy because it’s Austria’s best wine growing area, just west of Vienna on the Danube, and Burgberg’s one of the villages there.  Gruner Veltliner is equally easy since it’s Austria’s unique, indigenous, and best-known grape.  Federspeil is the style of wine, similar to a Kabinett level German wine, except that it’s a measure of body (extract) not sugar, so it’s dry.  (Wines labeled “Smaragd” are richer, those labeled “Steinfeder,” lighter, but still dry).  This wine has the body of Chardonnay and the riveting acidity and structure of Riesling, with an enticing minerality and suave texture.  Beautifully balanced, it’s versatile, equally compatible with grilled fish or spicy Asian fare. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 11, 2009